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Christopher Howard's
Living and Investing in the New Cuba

a view of what the future holds for cuba
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Central Havana, or 'Centro', is laid out in a near perfect grid in the area between the Paseo del Prado to the east and the neighborhood of Vedado to the west. This area is considered to be the heart of the city. The Malecón runs along the north boundary of this district. There architecture in this area is very impressive. El Capitolio or the capitol building is modeled after the Capitol in Washington, D.C. It was inaugurated in 1929 and today is a museum, convention and exposition center. There is a small Chinatown, but nothing like the ones in San Francisco, New York or Los Angeles. The remnants of Cuba's once thriving Chinese community live in this part of the city.

Havana Downtown Map

Vedado, to the west, is Havana's main commercial and residential center. There are mostly hotels and apartments located in this part of the city. There are some art deco buildings like the ones found in Miami. The University of Havana, and a couple of museums are among the attractions found there.

La Rampa, the name for Calle 23 from Calle L to the sea in Vedado, is the five block area and the vibrant nerve center of Havana. It begins at around the halfway point on the Malecón and ends at the Havana Libre Hotel. The Hotel Capri, Hotel Riviera and Hotel Nacional are high rise hotels which originally catered to Americans in the pre-Castro days. Travel agencies, restaurants, cabarets, stores and theaters are found within this district. One of the cities most popular meeting places is the famous Coppelia Ice Cream Parlour and Park.

The exclusive suburb of Miramar, west of Vedado on the west bank of the Almendares River, gives us a glimpse of life before the revolution with its tree lined avenues, mansions and villas. This is where the richest of Havana's residents lived before the revolution. Now, most of the mansions are embassies, offices and schools.  The main drag of this formerly glitzy upper class area is appropriately called Fifth Avenue. The Acuario Nacional or National Aquarium (Avenida 1 No 6002 at calle 60) is found in this neighborhood. It contains saltwater fish and performing dolphins. The Convention Center and Tropicana Nightclub are also found here along with a few good restaurants.

To the west of Miramar are a string of seemingly endless suburbs. On Havana's outskirts there are many places of interest. About eight miles west of Havana on the coast is the Hemingway Marina. It is Cuba's largest marina and has space for over 400 yachts. There are restaurants - including the famous Papas, a hotel, supermarket and shopping center in this complex. The marina is the site of the annual Ernest Hemingway Fishing Tournament held each May. Scuba diving, water skiing and jet skiing are also available at the marina.

About 7 miles east of Havana is the suburb and little town of San Francisco de Paula, where the Museo Hemingway or Hemingway Museum, is found. It contains many of the late writer's relics. Cojímar, about 6 miles east of Havana, is a picturesque little fishing village famous for being the setting of Hemingway's classic novel, The Old Man and the Sea. This village has a laid back Caribbean atmosphere and a seafront promenade. Go to La Terraza restaurant to check out the Hemingway memorabilia. It was a favorite local hangout of his, and the sea food is delicious.

Playas del Este, Havana's eastern beaches, offers something for beach lovers. There are a series of fourteen beaches strung along miles of beautiful coastline. Bacuranao is the first beach east of Havana. Santa María del Mar is the longest of these beaches and is as popular with tourists as is Guanabo with the locals. Other good beaches are Mégano and Boca Ciega. The last of these beaches Jibacoa, about fifty miles east of Havana, is a good snorkeling beach because of the numerous reefs offshore. It is less expensive than most of the other resorts in the area. All these beaches have accommodations and food as well as fine white sand, crystal clear blue water and recreational facilities. These nearby beaches can be reached by either bus or electric train.

If readers wish to know more about Havana they should read Christopher Baker's Havana Handbook. This fine work is the companion guide to Mr. Baker's classic, Cuba Handbook. It is the first ever travel guidebook in English devoted solely to the Cuba capital and is filled with 450 pages of indispensable information. Please see the "Suggested Reading" section in Chapter 9 for additional details.

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From "Living and Investing in the New Cuba " by Christopher Howard. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this article may be reproduced without written permission of the authors and copyright owner.

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