Before you set out to explore Cuba you should realize the country is bigger than it appears on maps-nearly 1000 miles from end to end. The fastest way to get around is by air. Cubana de Aviación has inter-island flights connecting Havana with about a dozen main cities including the Island of the Youth. Aero Caribbean 79-5224 offers many charter flights and service to those areas not served by Cubana. One way domestic prices range from $20 to $80 depending on your destination.

The Ministry of Transportation, or MITRANS, operates all passenger trains. In Cuba train travel is a way to get from one place to another. It also allows you to see some of the sights and countryside along the way. Cuba has around 8000 miles of railway with two thirds used by the sugar industry and the remaining part for passenger service. The main rail line passes through the center of the country from Pinar del Río Province to Havana to Santiago de Cuba at the other end of the island. There are also several branches off the main line which go to smaller cities and towns. There is an electric train that goes from Havana to the city of Matanzas.

Don't expect to find the same kind of comforts as you do on European and U.S. trains. Cuba's passenger trains are most often slow moving, unclean, have windows that don't open, air conditioning that is too high or too low and schedules that are unreliable. Despite these shortcomings, if you do travel by train, choose first class since air conditioning is usually available. The overnight express from Havana to Santiago offers fairly good service. The 600 mile trip takes about 16 hours and the train passes through many cites along the way. This is the best way to meet Cubans and see the country.

In Havana tickets may be purchased in advance at the Ladis (formerly known as Ferotour office) Tel; (62) 4259 behind the Central Railway Station or Estación Central de Ferrocarril in Habana Vieja Tel: (5702041. In Santiago de Cuba at the other end of the rail line, call Ferrotour at (07) 22254 to make reservations.

Cuba has about 10,000 miles of paved roads and boasts of one of the best road systems in Latin America. The main highway-La Carretera Central or Central Highway-goes almost from one end of the island to the other running from Pinar del Río in the west to Santiago for a total length of over 800 miles. There is also an eight lane expressway linking only part of the island. It extends from Pinar del Río to just east of Santa Clara. Other new highways go from Havana to Varadero and another joins the cays around Cayo Guillermo and Callo Coco. In addition to the paved highways, there are a number of small or secondary roads which traverse the country at various points and unpaved "farm to market roads". Many roads are unpaved and full of pot holes.

When driving in the countryside, only drive during the day. Be sure to watch out for livestock, pedestrians and bicycles. Also, remember to take along some type of map and be careful of blind curves when traveling in mountainous areas. During the rainy season improved roads can turn into quagmires. Try not to venture off the main paved road or you will run the risk of getting stuck in the mud and possibly stranded in a remote area. To drive legally in the country you must be 21 years old and have either an International Driver's License or a national driver's license.

Buses are the backbone of Cuba's public transportation system. Almost everyone depends on the bus system for travel within and between cities. Cuban buses or gua-guas (wha-whas) are used in cities and towns for local travel. In the capital a type of tractor-trailer buses known as camellos are used. All that is required is having the patience to stand in long lines to use this form of transportation. For long distance travel there are air conditioned interprovincial tourist buses. Many of these buses are newer European models. They go to and from Havana and service most of the country. There are also smaller, less comfortable buses with no air conditioning that travel frequently between the majority of the cities and towns.

Bus travel is usually inexpensive and quicker than traveling by train. Be sure to make your reservations in advance, especially during the peak tourist season, weekends or holidays. All major cities and most towns have bus terminals. Havanatour Tel: 33-2712 Fax: 33-2601 and other companies offer modern air conditioned bus service to resort areas.

Havauotos (main office Calle 36, No. 505, Av. 5e, Miramar, Havana, Tel: 23-9815), www.cubaweb.cu, Cubancan (Tel:33-0742), National Rent a car (Tel: 81-0357 Fax: 33-0742) and Transautos (Tel: 24-5532 Fax: 24-4057) are agencies offering car rentals. CUBACAR which has offices in Havana, Varadero and five other locations offers car rentals over the Internet. You may contact them at E-mail: cubacar@cbcan.cyt.cu or by phone at (537) 24-2718 or fax them at (537) 33-0760. You must be at least 21 years old and posses either an International Driver's License or a valid national driver's license to drive. There are also individuals who have their own cars and work as private chauffer.  They will be glad to take you to your destination or show you the sights.

Havana has plenty of taxis for tourists, businessmen and foreign residents. Taxis may be found around most hotels and in other areas of Cuba's cities. To get a taxi in Havana call 81-0153, 35-5539 or 33-6312. Turistax and Panataxi are larger companies. But here are also numerous licensed and unlicensed private taxis. Some taxis cater exclusively to tourists. Other ordinary taxis are used by anyone who can afford this mode of transportation. Special long distance taxis can be booked through Infotur (Palace del Tourisms, Calle Obispo, Havana, Tel: 61-1544).